I'm at a figurative, slightly literal crossroads in Bocas del Toro, Panama right now debating what to do with the next few days of my life. And depending on the decision, it can be the last few days of my life. I'm looking to get to the mystical land of the Kogi people in the Sierra Nevada on the northern Caribbean Coast of Colombia, but the concept of a "road" no longer exists past the shoddy Panamanian border-like town of Yaviza. Take a couple of southern-bound steps past the town of Yaviza and you'll be greeted by the lush, tumultuous shores of green, unadulterated wilderness. And perhaps on this 99-mile dense jungle-trek to Colombia you'll be fortunate to find a hungry jaguar (or two), preying pumas, hissing snakes, trigger-happy members of the cartel, jungle bandits, guerilla rebels, parasitic insects and ransom-seeking members of the FARC (although, they agreed to stop doing that so I could confidently cross that off my list). Welcome to the Darién Gap.